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A noble City in the heart of
Tuscany |
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Tuscany is one of the most famous regions in
Europe and has one of the richest histories.
San Miniato, the XX
mile City, has always been a part of this history. This title
comes from its special geographical position. San
Miniato is located along the Via Francigena (the road from France)
that connected northern Europe to Rome during the Middle Ages and
it was travelled by an uninterrupted flow of men, armies, trade,
ideas and culture. Situated along this route in the heart of the
Arno River Valley, San Miniato was at the intersection of the
roads between Florence and Pisa, Lucca and Siena, Pistoia, San
Gimignano, Volterra and Vinci also lay within these twenty miles. It
is not surprising, therefore, that San Miniato was a favoured city
of emperors like Frederick II of Swabia and Popes such as Gregory V
and Eugene IV. In 1533, for example, as Michelangelo wrote in one
of his manuscripts, he met with Pope Clement VII in San Miniato
where the pontiff commissioned him to paint the Sistine Chapel.
A
few years later, Michel de Montaigne stopped there and recorded
the visit in his work "Travel to Italy". It may be that
another great traveller, Wolfang Goethe, whose journey between
Florence and Siena was documented, stopped to visit San Miniato al
Tedesco, the Rocca, the castle of his fellow countryman Frederick
II and the sixteenth-century Accademia degli Affidati. The
entire history of Tuscany from the Etruscans to the Grand Duchy of
Hapsburg-Lorraine, found a meeting point in San Miniato. |
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Two thousand years of history of
an ancient town
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The original core of the city dates back to the
8th century when, according to the original document from 713 kept
in the Archivio Arcivescovile (Archiepiscopal Archives) in Lucca,
seventeen Longobards built a church there dedicated to the martyr
Miniato.
The city's origin is therefore Germanic, and
since the Middle Ages it would be known as San Miniato al Tedesco.
In the span of five centuries San Miniato grew
as a medieval bastion, from when Otto I of Saxony in 962 made it
one of the seats of his imperial government, up to when Frederick
II of Swabia built his castle there in 1218, making it the focal
point for central Italy's tax collection.
It will be another German, Maria Maddalena of
Austria, wife of Cosimo dei Medici, to help San Miniato by making
it the bishop's see in 1622. In gratitude, a large marble statue
was erected in her honor. Infortunately, it was destroyed at the
end of the eighteenth century by the San Miniato Jacobins during
the French Revolution and today only a large fragment of it
remains near the Franciscan convent.
Such a history could not but leave an important
artistic and architectural heritage.
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The people of San Miniato |
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Frederick
II of Swabia was a friend to San Miniato, and stayed there more
than once, as mentioned before. The early building of the
Franciscan Convent, one of the most imposing and important
buildings in the city, was said to be the work of the same St.
Francis when he was just over thirty years old. It was built
over the ruins of the protoromanesque church of San Miniato, that
gave origin to the city around the year 700.
Repetti,
in his Choreographic Dictionary of Tuscany, defines San Miniato as
the "breeding-ground of illustrious men". Matilde di
Canossa and Francesco Sforza were born there, the latter giving
rise to the Visconti family of Milan. Five centuries later another
man from San Miniato, the senator and famous oncologist Pietro
Bucalossi, will become mayor of the Lombard city. In 1559 Ludovico
Cardi, the Tuscan Correggio, also was born in San Miniato. Known
as "il Cigoli", his works hang in the Uffizi, Louvre,
Prado and Hermitage museums. The Corsican branch
of the Bonaparte family is discended from a noble San Miniato
family as well. Twice the young Napoleon lived in San Miniato with
relatives, and he returned again in 1797 during the italian
campaign, when he interrupted his advance and held a council of
war in his Monsignor uncle's house in the square having the same
name. Newspaper articles of the time kept in the archives
excitedly reported this extraordinary fact. San
Miniato was where Giosué Carducci, a young secondary school
professor, started his career as a poet which would eventually
earn him the Nobel prize. Here, on the top of the hill, he
published his first collection of verses: The Resources af San
Miniato al Tedesco, printed by Ristori. Seventy years later
another great poet, Mario Luzi, will take the place Carducci once
held as a teacher. Art and history, culture and
poetry. As unusual combination that still produces effects. The
Taviani brothers' motion pictures, (both were born in the city
centre), have more than once told the story of San Miniato as a
metaphor of the world, such as the microcosm of the fratricidal
war in their film "Notte di San Lorenzo" (Night of San
Lorenzo). |
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